Resilient tie



Aug. 11, 1936. F- 2,050,596

RESILIENT TIE Filed May 19, 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR .ZsadoreDavid hblzfson ATTORNEY Aug 11, 1936.

I, D. WOLFSON RESILIENT TIE Filed May 19, 1954 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 I N VETO R Isadore David Wo /Ban OR N EY Patented Aug. 11, 1936 UNITED STATESPATENT OFFICE RESILIENT TIE Isadore David Wolfson, New York, N. Y.Application May 19, 1934, Serial No. 726,427

4 Claims.

This invention relates to neckties and particularly .to the typedisclosed in my prior Patents Nos. 1,541,675 and 1,826,035, and to themethod of making the same.

It has heretofore been customary in making four-in-hand ties to overlapthe rear flaps of the tie on each other. Such overlapping hascustomarily been necessary to conceal the raw edges of the flaps and tosecure in place the filler, padding or interlining which gave body tothe tie..

My invention contemplates the provision of a tie wherein not only is thefiller or padding entirely eliminated but wherein the rear flaps arearranged in edge adjacent instead of overlapping relation, suflicientbody being provided in the tie byreason of its novel construction toenable it adequately to perform its functions.

My invention further contemplates the provision of a tie which is highlyresilient in all directions of stress, which is extremely resistant towrinkling, which is rip-proof at the seams even under considerablestress, which is adapted to be machine sewn without the necessity forany hand work except where my new cross stitching or the usual handrunning stitch is employed, and yet which is adapted to form a perfectsmall knot at all tying points in its length and to provide a muchdesired flaring pleat of good appearance below the knot.

My invention further contemplates the provision of a tie of two sheetsof material, which is of great strength, which may be readilymanipulated in the collar of the wearer, which lies flat against theshirt of the wearer being prevented from curling or other distortion,and which can be easily tied and untied repeatedly without material orpermanent wrinkling.

My invention further contemplates the provision of a combined lining andresistance material combining in one, with even greater efliciency, allof the advantages of separate linings and separate fillers or paddingheretofore in general use.

My invention further contemplates the provision of a tie in which asuitable pressing form may be inserted after the tie is made to permitpressing of the tie as a final step in its construction and by the userwhen desired.

My invention further contemplates the provision of an efficient methodfor making the tie.

The various objects of my invention will be clear from the descriptionwhich follows, and from the drawings, in which,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of one form of my new tie.

Fig. 2 is a cross-section thereof taken on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged view of the wide end of thetie, part of the lininghaving been removed to show the stitching by meansof which the tie issecured to its lining.

Fig. 4 is a similar view of the end portion of a modified form of thetie showing the tie partly unfolded to disclose the end of the lining,which in the form shown, terminates inwardly of the extreme end of thetie.

Fig. 5 is an enlarged view of the lining material showing the weavethereof.

Fig. 6 is a section of the lining material taken on the line 6-6 of Fig-5.

Fig. 7 is an elevational view of the tie as it appears in the firststages of its manufacture, and turned inside out.

Fig. 8 is a similar view of the tie as it ap-' pears after it has beenturned right side out and ends closed and stitched.

Fig. 9 is a rear view of tie as it appears in the reversed position inwhich the spaced bar tacks are made therein.

Fig. 10*is a front view of the same after the tie has again been turnedright side out, showing a pressing form inserted thereinto.

Fig. 11 is a rear view of a modified form of the tie wherein a cross orlacing stitch replaces the bar tacks.

Fig. 12 is a fragmentary enlarged view of the same showing the crossstitch used in connection with bar tacks.

Fig. 13 is a perspective view, partly in section, taken on the line l3l3of Fig. 8 showing the stitching at the end of the tie.

In one practical embodiment of my invention which I have shown by way ofexample, the tie comprises only two parts It] and II co-extensive inlength and width and of substantially the same shape.

While each of the parts Ill and II may be made if desired of a singlepiece of bias cut material, I prefer, in order to save material, to makeeach of these parts of three pieces and to join the pieces in each ofthe parts In and II by suitable stitching arranged substantially at theend of the neck band portion of the tie as shown at 40, Figs. 1 and '7.

The part I0 is made of any suitable material customarily used for theouter or exposed part of the tie and which will be termed hereinaftertie material while the part I l is made of material having the combinedfunctions of a silk or finishing lining and a filler strip or padding,and will be referred to as lining material.

As shown in Figs. 1, 5, 6, 7 and 8, the material used for the lining IIis cut on the bias to give it resiliency and comprises preferably thewarp threads I2 of silk, satin or similar finishing material of goodappearance interwoven with the thicker and heavier filler threads I3 ofwool or similar crease resisting material. The exposed face I4 0f thelining is lustrous, soft, and of the appearance of silk or the like,thereby enhancing the good appearance of the tie. The inner or concealedface I5, however, of the lining I I may be comparatively dull inappearance and exposes a greater part of the comparatively thick threadsI3. The thin warp threads I2 are woven over two or more of the fillerthreads I3 on the exposed face or front of the goods and under a singlefiller thread on the reverse face or back of the goods.

The comparatively heavy filler threads I3 impart to the lining thefunctions of the filler or padding heretofore used in neckties, givingsulficient body to the goods, resisting wrinkling, and eliminating thenecessity for a separate sheet of filling material.

In order to prevent any possible displacement of the lining IIrelatively to the outer part I 0 and thereby to prevent the possiblewrinkling which might occur by reason. of such displacement, the edgesI6 of the lining are secured throughout their entire lengths to'theadjacent edges I! of the outer part III as by means of suitableover-seaming stitching I8 (Figs. 3 and 7) such as can readily be made onan overlock spiral stitch machine. The stitching I8 is preferably of theresilient looped type permitting elongation of the tie under stresswithout material stress being put on the stitching, which elongatesreadily with the tie.

It will be understood that the over-seaming stitching I8 is made whilethe part II] and its lining II are arranged in back to back relation(Fig. 7) so that the tie may later be turned right side out. It willfurther be understood that the stitching is made while the tie is in itsfiat or unfolded state and that such stitching is omitted from the endsof the tie. In other words, the lining II and the outer part I 0 remainat this stage preferably unstitched by the stitching I8 at thetransverse edges or ends of the tie. Where, however, the lining 35 isnot coextensive in length with the tie part III, (Fig. 4) the stitchingI8 may be made over the inturned ends 36 of the tieto finish the tie atits ends. While the tie remains in its reversed position, as shown inFig. '7, it is closed at its wide end on the edges 20 and 2| by suitablestitching as 22 and is also closed by similar stitching on one edge as23 of its narrow end, leaving open the other edge 24 of the narrow end.

The tie is then turned or reversed into right side out position to bringthe face I4 of the lining goods into exposed position at the back of thetie and to carry the front face of the piece I0 into its proper positionon the' outside of the tie. Finally, a line of through stitching as 25,(Fig. 8) is made across the wide end of the tie preferably inwardly ofthe now concealed stitching 22'and through the four thicknesses ofmaterial formed by the turned in and doubled layers of lining and outermaterial (Fig. 13). The narrow end of the tie is stitched by the line ofthrough stitching 26 made preferably inwardly double stitching abovedescribed and thereby are 6 prevented from curling up or becomingdistorted under the various conditions of use and under stress orchanges in atmospheric conditions, making a strong and substantiallyundistortable fiat end on the tie adapted to lie flat against the 10shirt of the user.

The edge 3| may now be brought into adjacent relation to the edge 32 ofthe tie and said edges are secured together to form the tie into itstubular shape. Where, however, the machine 15 bar tacks are used to joinsaid edges, the tie edges 3| and 32 are not brought together in theusual manner but in reverse position so that the knot 38 of the bar tackwill be invisible *or concealed on the inside of the tie after the tiehas 20 been again turned right side out. In other words, the edges 3|and 32 are brought together into adjacent or even abutting relation withthe lining II appearing on the outside of the tie and the part III onthe inside. The machine bar 25 tacks 31 are then made at the requiredspaced intervals. The tie is then again turned right side out into theposition shown in Fig. 10 wherein the tie part I0 is on the outside orexposed faces of the tie and the lining II on the 30 inside.

Where, however, it is desired to have a resilient connection between theedges 3| and 32, the bar tacks may be entirely omitted. In this case,the edges 3| and 32 of the tie are brought to- 35 gether in the oppositedirection from that shown in Fig. 9. That is, said edges are broughttogether in the usual manner with the tie part III forming the outerface of the tie and the lining II being arranged on the inside, as isshown in Fig. 11. The same is true when hand made bar tacks are used tohold the edges of the flaps together, or when the resilient connectionconsists of the usual slip stitching.

The edges 3| and 32 nevertheless in either case are brought into edgeadjacent position and not into overlapping relation, as has heretoforebeen customary and usual. After said edges have been brought into thedesired relation, the resilient cross stitching 39 is made at the edgesof the lining part of the tie. It will be noted that the thread 4| ofthe cross stitching 39 enters the edge 32 of the lining at a point 42spaced in advance from the point 43 where the thread leaves said edge32. Similarly, the thread enters the edge 3| at a point 44 in advance ofthe point 45 where the thread leaves the lining part of the edge 3|(Fig. 12). In this manner, when the edges 3| and 32 are forciblyseparated as they may be should it be desired to inspect the lining, 60and as is indicated in Fig. 12, the threads assume a diagonal positioninstead of a straight line position, but the threads are neverthelesslocked against each other by reason of the under lock between the points42 and 43 on one edge and the 5 corresponding points 44 and 45 on theother edge.

It will be noted that the cross stitching may also be stretchedlongitudinally as well as transversely, if desired, without adverselyaffecting the stitching, and that each stitch is locked relatively tothe adjacent stitch and in contradistinction from the running stitch newcustom arily used in the closing of the edges of the flaps of ties ofthe type now being described.

'It will be understood that as shown in Fig. 11,

the cross stitching 39 may be used throughout the entire lengths of thetie flaps 29 and 30. Or as shown in Fig. 12, said stitching may be usedin connection with bar tacks 31 and particularly in the neck bandportion of the tie and in part of the tying portion, there being no bartacks, however, on the tie intermediate of the ends of said stitching.Or, as shown in Fig. 9, the bar tacks whether made by hand or by machinemay be used alone without the cross stitching 39, or the usualwell-known slip stitching may be used for connecting the edges of theflaps in their edgeadjacent relation.

In any case, however, the tie, after being arranged in the tubular formshown in Fig. 10, may then be pressed to form the edge creases 46 and 41therein as a final step in the process of making the tie and indistinction from former methods wherein the pressing operation isusually done before the tie is completed. To accomplish this result asuitably tapered form as 50 is inserted into the tie between the rearfiaps and the face of the tie, said form stretching the tie into itsproper shape, clearly defining the folds where the edge creases 48 and41 are to come, and straightening out the center seam so that the edges3| and 32 come close together throughout their entire lengths. The tiemay then be pressed on the form to finish it.

It will be understood that the wearer of the tie may similarly press thetie should it lose its proper shape, by means of a similar formsimilarly inserted into the tubular tie, in a manner heretoforedifficult in connection with the ties in which the edge stitching isutilized to hold a filler strip and therefore obstructs the entrance ofa form into the tie after the tie has been otherwise finished.

It will further be seen that even though a pressing form be not used topress the finished tie, nevertheless no ridges or impressions willappear on the face of the tie when it is pressed i since the flaps 29and 30 do not overlap.

It will also be seen that the adjacent or abutting edges 3! and 32 ofthe back flaps 29 and 30 may be readily spread apart for the inspectionof the lining material I I, and that the bar tacks 31 or the crossstitching 39 may be out if desired to permit the tie to be opened andpressed while flat.

In the form of my invention shown in Fig. 4, the lining 35 terminatesinwardly of the ends of the tie. Nevertheless, the remainder of the tiemay be made as hereinbefore described in connection with theco-extensive lining and outer 1 material excepting that the ends of thetie need not be stitched by the stitching- 25 and 26, the hem 36 beingconstructed at the time that the stitching I8 is made, as has beenhereinbefore indicated.

In any case, the resiliency of the tie, lining and outer materialthereof, together with the various stitching for securing these partstogether, make it impossible for the lining to become displacedrelatively to the tie material or to become wrinkled whereby the tie ismade highly resistant to any wrinkling effect thereon. The threads l3 ofthe lining provide the body and resiliency so highly desirable in a tieof the type here involved, resisting wrinkling and making the tie highlyresilient throughout the entire area thereof. By means ofthe-over-stitching at the edges of the tie, great longitudinal stressmay be put thereon without any danger of any of the stitching giving wayunder the stress.

By abutting the edges of the back flaps instead,

of overlapping them, a considerable quantity of material is eliminated,thereby effecting substantial savings in the cost of the tie as well asmaking the tie thin and thereby making it possible for the tie to slipthrough the collar freely and to be tied and untied with ease andrapidity. At the same time, a perfect knot can be produced at all tyingpoints of the tie, the knot spreading at its lower end into the wideform sought for by good dressers with the desirable pleat being formedbelow the knot, by reason of the hinging action of. the tie flaps abouttheir edges, said action being permitted by reason of their relativelyfree and non-overlapping relation.

The tie construction holds the lining in place at its edges and ends insuch a manner as to cause it to follow the tie material in to all theshapes into which said. material is formed during the tying and untyingoperations.

While I have described and shown my invention in connection with afour-in-hand tie, I wish it to be understood that my invention may beapplied as well to ties of the ascot or muiiler type.

It will be seen that I have provided a tie wherein a substantial savingis effected in the amount of' material used, of good appearance,finished throughout, in which all padding and interlining is eliminated,and wherein the resiliency is imparted by making the lining of suchnature that it has all the advantages of a separate interlining withoutany of the disadvantages thereof.

It will further be seen that my improved tie is of great strength, beingsubstantially ripproof, that the lining is of pleasing appearance, beingprovided with a silk or the like finish, that it is finished in tubularform and hence may be pressed on a form after being finished, and thatit is well designed to meet the requirements of practical use.

While I have shown and described certain specific embodiments of myinvention, it will be understood that I donot wish to limit myselfthereto but desire to claim my invention as broadly as may be permittedby the state of the prior art and the scope of the appended claims.

I claim: 7 1. A two-part necktie crease-resisting through out its entirearea and comprising a bias-cut sheet of tie material, a bias-cut liningsheet coextensive with and directly adjacent to the tie material, saidlining sheet comprising silk threads interwoven with wool threads, saidsilk threads forming an exposed outer silk facing and said wool threadsforming an inner wool back, said sheets forming the only material in thetie, the end edge portions of the tie material and lining beinginfolded, lines of stitching passing through the infolded end edgeportions of the tie material and of the lining to maintain the ends ofthe tie fiat against distortion and curling, the longitudinal edges ofthe tie being arranged in transversely separable adjacent relation, andstitching joining said edges at the back of the tie at sufiicientlyspaced intervals to permit said edges to be transversely separated toexpose the silk facing without breaking the stitching.

2. A necktie which is crease-resisting throughout its entire length andwidth comprising solely two different superposed sheets of material,each of said sheets being cut on the bias and being resilient, saidsheets being of the same size and shape, the outer of said sheets beingof tie material, the inner sheet being of combined crease-resisting andlining material woven of comparatively fine threads to provide a silkfacing on one face of said inner sheet forming a finishing lining on thetie, said silk threads being interwoven with comparatively coarsecreaseresisting threads to form a different crease-resisting facing onthe other face of said inner sheet, loose stitching securing theperipheral edges of said sheets together throughout their entire lengthswith the crease-resisting facing adjacent the rear face of the outersheet, the stitched longitudinal edge portions of said sheets beingfolded on to the back of the tie in edge-adjacent relation to form apair of rear flaps concealing and protecting the silk facing, andstitching joining the longitudinal edges of the tie together at pointssufliciently spaced apart longitudinally to permit said edges to bespread apart transversely for exposure and inspection of said silkfacing.

3. A crease-resisting neck tie consisting solely of two parts, one ofsaid parts comprising a biascut sheet of tie material, the other of saidparts comprising a bias-cut sheet of lining material, said liningmaterial comprising silk and wool threads interwoven to form a silkfacing on one face of the sheet and a wool facing on the other face ofthe sheet, said sheets being secured together with the wool facingadjacent the rear face of the sheet of tie material, said sheets beingfolded to provide a pair of similar rear flaps at the back of the necktie, the longitudinal edges of said rear flaps being arranged in edgeadjacent relation, and means for separably securing said longitudinaledges together against complete separation whereby said edges may beseparated to expose said silk facing for inspection.

4. The method of making a tie comprising stitching the edges of a tiepart and a lining part together while said parts are in face to facerelation, turning the tie right side out, bringing the secured edges ofthe parts together to form a tube with the lining outside and tackingthe secured edges together in edge-to-edge relation, and then againturning the tie into right side out position.

ISADORE DAVID WOLFSON.

